Three Stops in Western Maryland

When someone talks about Maryland, odds are it’s not about western Maryland. Western Maryland is home to some of the harshest geography and least populated areas in the eastern United States. Most who do experience this area try to push through it as quickly as possible on I-68, some not even realizing their proximity to the National Road, which winds carefully through and over the mountains, visiting some of the most charming and beautiful towns in the mid-Atlantic. On this day, the goal was Baltimore from Morgantown. Traveling in tandem with Chris, it was time for a history lesson on America's first Mother Road in Garrett and Allegany counties.

Our first stop was at the Little Crossings, now called the Casselman Bridge. This bridge was originally built in 1813 for use on the National Road. It carried traffic for over 100 years before being replaced by a through truss bridge in the 1930s on an alignment of US-40 only a few hundred feet from the old bridge. The bridge from 1813 was the largest of its type when it was built. When you approach the bridge what is most apparent is its imposing size, then you realize it was built by hand. The bridge had fallen into disrepair and was restored in the 1970s and is now a small state park along the current alignment of Alt US-40 a few miles east of Grantsville, MD. Though if you do visit this bridge, start signaling your turn early, it’s a steep hill and other drivers appreciate getting as much warning as possible.

The original crossing over the Casselman River

We continued the trek eastward, traveling up and down the mountains nowhere near as efficiently as the cars on I-68. Though I was wondering how many people on I-68 saw us going up and down those hills, wishing on such a beautiful day they weren’t on the interstate. Our next stop was at the LaVale Tollhouse, just outside of Cumberland, MD. Funding for roads has always been a highly contentious issue. When the National Road was built the federal government passed the responsibility of paying for the roads onto the states, which led to elaborate tolling schemes. In Maryland the National Road had two tollhouses, the one in LaVale being one of them. Sitting along present Alt US-40 is this relatively non-descript beige building was the source of some highway drama! Folks in the 1830s didn’t like tolls any more than we do today, and pikers found new and exciting ways to aggravate the toll collectors.

The Lavale Tollhouse, on the National Road a few miles west of Cumberland, Maryland.

After a delicious lunch at D’Atri Restaurant in LaVale we continued along the National Road toward Hancock. There are many hills and mountains between where the National Road enters Maryland from Pennsylvania to Hancock, but Town Hill not only presents a beautiful view of the valley below and Sideling Hill to the east, but is home to the Town Hill Tavern. The Town Hill Tavern is the last 1920s-era lodging and dining establishment along the old National Road. Traffic is pretty light, and looking down from the overlook explains it. We quietly watched the traffic rush pass below on I-68, while only acknowledging one motorcycle passing us up at the summit of Town Hill.

Town Hill Tavern on the National Road, a few miles west of Sideling Hill.

View of I-68 and, in the distance, Sideling Hill, from the Town Hill Tavern.