Conquering the Pacific Northwest: Alberta Bound

Radium Hot Springs is a hot springs complex with two pools. There is evidence that recreation and resorts have developed around natural springs for millennia. In fact, Chris and my favorite winter vacation spot is the Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia. As I’m sure you can guess that resort originated because of the presence of the springs, thought to have medicinal/therapeutic benefit. Most striking about Radium is the name. Analysis of the waters found small amounts of radon, which is a product of the decay of radium. The amount of radon is considered inconsequential from a dose impact perspective so the waters are safe. Beyond the pools, the roads in the area immediately around the pools are also impressive, narrowly hemmed in by steep mountain cliffs on either side. Despite sufficient clearance for the two lanes through the area of the springs, it’s impossible not to feel a little claustrophobic heading northeast!

Just beyond the hustle of Radium Hot Springs we stopped at the striking Olive Lake. The water in this area was incandescent turquoise and perfectly still. We parked the car and took a short walk to the lake and truly felt as if we were in the wilderness. I wouldn’t have been surprised to encounter a bear. In fact, it turns out about a month earlier this serene recreation area had been closed because bears had taken up residence near the parking area and main trails.

The turquoise waters of Olive Lake

Right around noon we arrived in Banff. Of foremost interest was visiting the Banff Springs Hotel. Like the aforementioned Greenbrier, the Banff Springs Hotel is another grand railroad resort. The hotel retains many of the architectural elements and much of the charm from its 1911 construction, but it has aged well. Good taste is not always timeless, but it is here. What I enjoyed most was finding little reminders of the hotel’s history as part of the Canadian Pacific organization (it is now a Fairmont Hotel), including the stylized Canadian Pacific shields featuring their iconic beaver.

Banff Springs Hotel

On our way back to the car, past the Bow Falls, we encountered more marmots. These marmots were just as adorable as those from earlier, but these were far more used to interacting with people! As I kneeled on the grass more than one came right up to me to solicit food and several allowed me to pet them, one particularly ambitious marmot even ran between my legs. Awkward.

One of the marmots chirping outside the Banff Springs Hotel

The last place we wanted to visit was Tunnel Mountain. Chris can’t resist the allure of old railroad infrastructure and with a name like Tunnel Mountain he thought he had hit the jackpot. After following Tunnel Mountain Road up a hill to a gorgeous view of a mountain we learned that despite the name of the mountain ahead of us, there was no tunnel. There had been plans for the tunnel, but the alignment of the railroad was changed prior to construction, eliminating the need for the tunnel.

We hit the road for Lake Louise. After seeing Banff we weren’t sure if we really needed to see Lake Louise, but my dad insisted. Driving up the mountain to the resort and hotel we passed a picnic area. Dad said that when he was a kid he was camping with his parents. My grandmother was peeling potatoes when she felt a tap on her shoulder. She thought it was my grandfather being silly, when he didn’t respond after she said something she realized it wasn’t my grandfather. No, it was a bear. When I checked the validity of the story with my grandmother (93 and still quite able to recall the day she came very close to a bear!) she said that she sat still, stunned for a few seconds, and then slowly walked back to where there were other people until the bear went away. This is actually a more correct way to handle a bear encounter than screaming and quickly running, surprising a bear can increase your likelihood of getting mauled by a bear.

When we reached the lake itself we were stunned and speechless. Dad says that the glacier behind the lake was much more impressive when he was a boy, but it impressed Chris and me quite sufficiently. We took off our sandals and waded in the turquoise water. Despite the heat of the day the water was ice cold, we were shocked to see a woman swimming between all of the canoes across the lake. Looking out onto the canoes floating on the turquoise water framed by the mountains and glaciers it felt like a quintessential Canadian sight. It was absolutely breathtaking. 

In front of Lake Louise, a true Canadian sight

From Lake Louise we headed back for British Columbia. After introducing Chris to two songs titled "Alberta Bound," one by Gordon Lightfoot and another by Paul Brandt, it was wonderful to finally take him to the mythical place and my dad's home province.