I think I have visited enough state parks in Pennsylvania to know that Presque Isle State Park is probably my favorite. The park provides for dramatically different experiences in each of the four seasons and includes a variety of different environments: beach, wetland, and forest. It amazes me how the thick, solid ice dunes of February, however, reveal pristine beaches in the summertime.
Just one of the perfect beaches on the unprotected Lake Erie side of Presque Isle, a few months earlier this section of beach was covered in ice dunes
The term Presque Isle is derived from the French term for an “almost” an island. So you find yourself on a peninsula surrounded by Lake Erie. The Presque Isle Multi-Purpose Trail is about 13.5 miles long and takes users on a complete loop of the peninsula: through the harbor protected by the peninsula, through wetlands and wildlife refuge, past beaches getting surprising amounts of surf from the unsheltered waters of Lake Erie, and even some cool, shaded forest. The route is a loop and it is largely level. There are some areas that follow the shoulder of the main road through the park so if you go, note that bike traffic generally moves counter-clockwise but, if you are not up for a solid 13.5 miles, there are plenty of opportunities to take shortcuts and enjoy different aspects of the park.
Our approach was to park in the first lot we found that had space and start from there, with the intention of completing the entire trail, which we did successfully. The ride was awesome, except when we were stuck behind people in rental surreys who could not quite seem to figure out how to operate the vehicles that everyone on board can help pedal. However, it is rare to encounter places in the trail where slower traffic cannot be passed in fairly short order.
Check out Presque Isle State Park and bring your bike, and do so especially if you are trying to find a way to spend more time on a bike or practice biking. Besides, the more you pedal the more you can justify eating all the junk food at the beach concession stands along the way. There may or may not have been a fully loaded foot-long hot dog near the end of my biking day.
For more information on the trail, including a detailed and printable map, I suggest checking out the listing on AllTrails, linked here.
Radium Hot Springs is a hot springs complex with two pools. There is evidence that recreation and resorts have developed around natural springs for millennia. In fact, Chris and my favorite winter vacation spot is the Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia. As I’m sure you can guess that resort originated because of the presence of the springs, thought to have medicinal/therapeutic benefit. Most striking about Radium is the name. Analysis of the waters found small amounts of radon, which is a product of the decay of radium. The amount of radon is considered inconsequential from a dose impact perspective so the waters are safe. Beyond the pools, the roads in the area immediately around the pools are also impressive, narrowly hemmed in by steep mountain cliffs on either side. Despite sufficient clearance for the two lanes through the area of the springs, it’s impossible not to feel a little claustrophobic heading northeast!
Just beyond the hustle of Radium Hot Springs we stopped at the striking Olive Lake. The water in this area was incandescent turquoise and perfectly still. We parked the car and took a short walk to the lake and truly felt as if we were in the wilderness. I wouldn’t have been surprised to encounter a bear. In fact, it turns out about a month earlier this serene recreation area had been closed because bears had taken up residence near the parking area and main trails.
The turquoise waters of Olive Lake
Right around noon we arrived in Banff. Of foremost interest was visiting the Banff Springs Hotel. Like the aforementioned Greenbrier, the Banff Springs Hotel is another grand railroad resort. The hotel retains many of the architectural elements and much of the charm from its 1911 construction, but it has aged well. Good taste is not always timeless, but it is here. What I enjoyed most was finding little reminders of the hotel’s history as part of the Canadian Pacific organization (it is now a Fairmont Hotel), including the stylized Canadian Pacific shields featuring their iconic beaver.
Banff Springs Hotel
On our way back to the car, past the Bow Falls, we encountered more marmots. These marmots were just as adorable as those from earlier, but these were far more used to interacting with people! As I kneeled on the grass more than one came right up to me to solicit food and several allowed me to pet them, one particularly ambitious marmot even ran between my legs. Awkward.
One of the marmots chirping outside the Banff Springs Hotel
The last place we wanted to visit was Tunnel Mountain. Chris can’t resist the allure of old railroad infrastructure and with a name like Tunnel Mountain he thought he had hit the jackpot. After following Tunnel Mountain Road up a hill to a gorgeous view of a mountain we learned that despite the name of the mountain ahead of us, there was no tunnel. There had been plans for the tunnel, but the alignment of the railroad was changed prior to construction, eliminating the need for the tunnel.
We hit the road for Lake Louise. After seeing Banff we weren’t sure if we really needed to see Lake Louise, but my dad insisted. Driving up the mountain to the resort and hotel we passed a picnic area. Dad said that when he was a kid he was camping with his parents. My grandmother was peeling potatoes when she felt a tap on her shoulder. She thought it was my grandfather being silly, when he didn’t respond after she said something she realized it wasn’t my grandfather. No, it was a bear. When I checked the validity of the story with my grandmother (93 and still quite able to recall the day she came very close to a bear!) she said that she sat still, stunned for a few seconds, and then slowly walked back to where there were other people until the bear went away. This is actually a more correct way to handle a bear encounter than screaming and quickly running, surprising a bear can increase your likelihood of getting mauled by a bear.
When we reached the lake itself we were stunned and speechless. Dad says that the glacier behind the lake was much more impressive when he was a boy, but it impressed Chris and me quite sufficiently. We took off our sandals and waded in the turquoise water. Despite the heat of the day the water was ice cold, we were shocked to see a woman swimming between all of the canoes across the lake. Looking out onto the canoes floating on the turquoise water framed by the mountains and glaciers it felt like a quintessential Canadian sight. It was absolutely breathtaking.
In front of Lake Louise, a true Canadian sight
From Lake Louise we headed back for British Columbia. After introducing Chris to two songs titled "Alberta Bound," one by Gordon Lightfoot and another by Paul Brandt, it was wonderful to finally take him to the mythical place and my dad's home province.
